Brian A. Hopkins
Adventure Bumpkin

Bahlobo y los Gringos:
"South of the Border"
(Copper Canyon, Mexico) 13 - 22 April 2007

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS & SCHTUFF: Wow. What an adventure. A foreign land ... great roads ... beautiful scenery ... friendly people ... near perfect weather. None of us got sick. Or injured (with the exception of Chris's scrapes and bruises). None of us got a flat tire (amazing!). With the exception of Danny's tire snafu, none of us had any problems with the bikes, even when we mistreated them on the infamous Stairs from Hell in Batopilas. The bikes more or less came home in good shape, mine taking the worst of it in that one fall on our last day offroad. Even then, however, the damage was mostly cosmetic.

I'd like to thank my traveling companions, Danny, Chris, and Rich, for putting up with me -- especially Danny, who had to listen to my snoring, smell my farts, and feign interest in my inane conversations. Danny was great to bunk with as he packed enough snack food to feed ten Mexican families for a month. Okay, so he did flood the bathroom once, clog the toilet once, use all my chain lube, and I was constantly guarding my pillows so that he wouldn't have sex with them ... and there was that whole "rub my feet" thing ... but I love traveling with the guy. There's not a more easy-going member of the male species on the planet.

Rich and Chris did all the navigating -- and, as always, did an exceptional job. (Chris even thinks he has that whole Batopilas to Urique thing figured out now. "Next time!" he says.) Rich took care of hotel arrangements. It was Rich's van and Chris's trailer. Thanks, guys!

Equipment wise, I've already sung the praises of the Arai XD. I was also pleased with my Gaerne Explorer boots, as they were quite comfortable on that hike to the top of Basaseachi Falls. Chris and Danny both had new Sidi Discovery boots and praised them as well. "Just as comfortable as my hiking boots,"' Chris said. As always, I was happy with the Dakar. The DR-Z boys -- and even Danny on his XR -- were suffering some serious gluteus maximus trauma from those two-by-four seats ... I was comfy. The Dakar did well offroad for something that weighs 425 pounds. The only drop was entirely the fault of that loose nut holding the handlebars. Tire wise, it's hard to beat the Dunlop 606's. Rich loved his Pelican cases. What else?

My camera (if you're impressed with the quality of the photos) was a Panasonic DMC-FZ7 ... 12X optical zoom, image stabilization, 6 megapixels, yada yada yada. I'm strictly a point-n-shoot type, so any credit for the photos goes to the camera. I'm not sure what Chris and Rich were using, but you can ask if you're interested. Chris said he photoshopped some of his photos; mine are purely as the camera puked them out (with the exception of some creative cropping here and there). I don't think Rich fudged with his either.

All of us want to go back ... but there are still so many other places we want to ride. My next outing is just a week or so away: sportbikes in Arkansas. It's a ZZR1200 rally, but I'll be leaving the ZZR in the garage and surprising my speed-crazy friends with my new CBR1000RR instead. The Arkansas twisties should be more fun than ever before.

Until next time, ride often, ride far, and ride safe!

Brian A. Hopkins
at Road's End, Oklahoma City
1 May 2007

Postscript, 3 May 2007: Danny had this to say about the trip (posted in the forums at rideok.com)...

Kickin’ and scratching I was the reluctant Border Traveler. Yano, I’ve heard all the horror stories. I was scared to say the least. Not about my riding or the adventure. Mexico. People would ask and I’d say. Not New Mexico. Mexico.

It took my best riding Bud and a guy named Golly to convince me. Go. Go see Mexico.

Think about what you hear. Drug lords. Corruptness and Mexican Jails. There is just too much to see in the USA for me to say, Mexico or bust. I’ve been to the Mexican Resorts and always felt safe. Traveling in the interior of Mexico? Four Guys who never have? None of us could put a complete Spanish sentence together on command. 8 days with four gringos prowling the Mexican country side? I lost a little sleep about this adventure.

Loaded up and ready to go. Leave the firearms at home. The Mexican Government isn’t fooling around about no guns or bullets. Big signs say Prison if you bring guns into Mexico. First stop was a border town across the border in Presidio. Gotta exchange Dollars for Pesos. Was about 10.6 Pesos to 1 US dollar. Dang the math was gonna get complicated in a hurry. We just all rounded 10-1 and all was well. "Going to Copper Canyon?" I heard over my shoulder. I turned and looked and a middle aged Mexican man was looking at me and smiling. I said yeah. We are. He said you will love it. It’s beautiful. We chatted and I thought what a gentle man I just met. That was my introduction to the common people. Even my Mexican friends in Oklahoma said, “Danny, you’re taking allot of risk.”

Off to Chihuahua and in just a few moments we were riding the curves and hills leading us to our destination. It was dusty and rocky, but really consuming in its own way. Along the roads, the locals would stick an arm in the air to wave at us. Not the brief steering wheel finger we do here in the US. I mean stick the arm straight up. And wave like they knew who we are. Town after town. Kids would smile and run to the sidewalks and wave. I felt a little like a celebrity. Here’s Doctor Dan on his Mighty XR. I couldn’t help but smile. The children were infectious with their smiles. Mile after mile. The people were sweet and helpful. The Army on the other hand. Scary. I think we went thru three check points with the Army and one of the Mexican Immigration. The Army guys would smile. Not all. They were friendly enough, but I always felt tremendous caution. Danger, Will Robinson! The guys might think I’m exaggerating, but it was something in my spirit. Caution. I think they could almost be like the DEA looking for guns.

They were friendly, but they were NOT to be messed with. The Chihuahua or local cars were waved thru. WE were the foreigners. We were the suspects. The shoe is on the other foot when in Mexico. Guns and Drugs are forbidden and I think they have more latitude than we can imagine. My Old Mexico friends tell me, "Life is cheap down there." Yeah, I was nervous. Thing is as soon as we were through the check points, Mexico is lovely and charming in it’s own way. Copper Canyon is beautiful. So are the Colorado Rockies. Mexico is polluted in many ways and that’s sad. Makes me grateful for the EPA. Money. Yeah, I took about 600 bucks. Spent all but about 50 dollars. I recommend taking a extra back tire if you plan on staying a week or you might need to find a 130 dollar Dunlop 606. Yeah I cut a corner on a cheap knock off but yah never know. My fault.

Like Brian said. No flats. We were lucky really. We rode the snot out of our bikes. The speed limits were crazy low. I wondered at times. Screaming around those roads.

I took a pocket full of candy, as did my bud Brian. One day I stopped at a school in the middle of friggin’ nowhere. The kids would run across the pasture or meadow to interact with us. This time I saw about 5 kids. I stopped. I pulled out some candy and I was handing it out as fast as I could. Next thing I know I have a mess of kids around me…and I’m laffing and saying No mas…..No mas!!!

I wouldn’t take anything for those memories. On the ride back from Batopilias, it was a rare time and I was leading on the pavement back to Creel. The ole XR felt good and I was cruizin’ with my buds. Almost back to Creel and I pulled up hard on a 68’ or so dark green ½ ton Chevy truck loaded with our Mexican friends. I was grabbing a fistful of brake and their faces reflected that I scared them too. I slowed down to a crawl, wishing I had a camera. That bed was packed with people in colorful dress. Adults. Teens. Kids. I wore a modular helmet and I flipped the chin bar up. We looked at each other. I smiled real big. Like a Cheshire Cat . I know I had to look cheesy. Thing was, they ALL smiled back at me in unison. It is one of the sweetest moments I have ever shared. That part was my favorite of our adventures.

The only time you’ll use a credit card is when you go across the border. The rest is cash. Prepare for that. Prepare to be humbled too. We have more in our Dual Sport bikes than most of those people own. Food still looks to be almost a luxury. Kind hearts are easy to find. Would I go back? Yes, I would. Do I still have my reservations about Mexico? Yes, I do.

If you go. Travel with people you trust. Prepare. Someone of questionable character could find you in a heap of trouble too. Four was a perfect number really.

Brian. Rick and Chris. Thanks for the best of times. Bob Golly…(You know who you are!!) Thanks for the advice!!