Supplies Needed:

Polymer clay:  Translucent, Green, Burnt Umber, Black

Stamps Used:  Frame 3584, Floral Motif 3595, and 3587 (not sure what to call that, lol)

Dedicated grater for clay

Powdered Mica, and/or Metallic Rub Ons

Talcum powder for release agent

Faux Jade:

Mix one full block of Green (I used Sea Green) and 1/2 a block of Burnt Umber until well mixed, no streaks.

Condition a whole block of Translucent and form into a log. Then take about a 1/2  inch round blob of the dark green mixture.  Roll into a long snake, wrap around log of translucent and twist.

Start mixing those together, just until sort of streaky looking. Form into a log.

Chill the clay.  You want it fairly firm before trying to grate it.  Grate the streaky clay on the large side of the grater, and reform into a flattened ball.  Take your black clay, and grate a tiny amount on the fine side of the grater right from the block (no conditioning).  Press the streaky clay into it, both sides.  Roll up and mix very gently, just to incorporate the black clay randomly thru the streaky mix. 

Pinch off some, and either run it thru pasta machine, or roll out with brayer or rolling pin. Don't roll too thin, so add more if needed until you have a flattened piece big enough for your stamp to fit.

I found flattening and brayer to work better for this than pasta machine... pasta machine made it look too marbled.

You want the clay about 1/16th to 1/8th thick.

Now dust your UM stamp with some talcum powder. (you can use a wm stamp, but this is much easier with a UM) Brush off excess powder. Alternatively you can use clear embossing fluid, or your choice of mold release agents.

Lay the stamp over the clay, and start pushing it into clay with fingers. Brayering helps, too. You want the stamp as deep as you can get it without pushing it all the way through the clay OR marking the clay with outside edges of the rubber stamp.

Carefully lift just part of the stamp out to check that your impression is even.

If you lift the whole stamp you will never get it lined up again right. Trust me on this one. :)

Trim around image stamped into clay as desired with a craft knife or other tool. Then bake as directed on package of clay.

The samples have acrylic paint baked into the impressions, but this looks quite lovely and very much like carved jade without the paint.

Faux Verdigris picture frame:

This is really simple. All that mixed green and brown clay that is left? Roll it out with brayer or pasta machine (easiest). Stamp with Frame stamp.

Make 2 templates, one about 1/16th inch smaller than the other, with the larger template being the size you want your finished frame. Stick a piece of tape on them for handles, so you can lift them off the clay.

Use the larger template to cut out the stamped piece of clay to size. Cut out the center of the frame and carefully lift out the clay. (you could cut a template for that, too)

Use the smaller template to cut the back out.

The self standing back is fairly easy, but hard to explain. It looks like a nose made from another sheet of clay. :) I attached it before baking.

I have gotta get a better digital camera!  This is the finished faux verdigris frame.

Rub powdered mica into clay before baking if using. Rub ons go on after baking.

Bake as directed. Let cool. 

Assemble frame with thin strips of clay around 3 sides of the back of the front piece. Put a little glue where the strips will go, then strips, then a touch of glue where they will touch the back. (you can also use tiny dabs of TLS) Lay the back on top of this. Press to adhere, and bake again.

After it's cool, apply the rub ons. You can use more or less, until it looks to your liking. Mix colors, etc. Coat with a light coat of glaze to keep the mica/ rub ons from rubbing off again.

Insert a picture! If it doesn't want to stay in the opening? Tape it to a larger bit of paper. Or... cut a sheet of transparency to fit inside the frame, and tape photo to that.